"Fertile Worlds".....39

Here is with further progress, mostly in laying in the sap green over the base blue in the detailing...

Here is an extreme close-up showing the detailing with sap green...

And here is giving it its sense of placement in 'the big picture'... 

"Fertile Worlds".....38

Extending the layering further across the  top, am now at the point where needs go back and detail out over what is colored before continuing on to the next area, especially the darker shaded areas around the bottom and the very lit ones across the mid areas ...

"Fertile Worlds".....37

As seen, got more of the washes and stippling down before engaging in some of the dark green overlaying of the blue...

and with the beginnings of layering the sap green over the original indigo blue, especially along the deeper shaded areas seen in the left corner...

"Fertile Worlds".....36

Beginning the coloring of the leaves, am doing it in a drop-wash fashion, with watery glazings of light green and emerald green using the nib and swirling the 'mess' about here and there according to how the blue base indicates...

Then adding stipples of lemon yellow over the white areas [relative to the greens] as evinced on the left corner...   when a large enough area of this is thus covered, then the base prussian blue will be layered with the darker sap green....

"Fertile Worlds".....35

Finally getting the sea part done on the right section...   now to do the leaves coloring...

Small But Important Note -

For those seeing my WIPs here [and elsewhere], just a bit of comforting information - despite what seems dangerous placing of ink bottles where it might seem they chance tipping over and spotting my renderings, all the bottles are closed save the one which is in the use at the time, and that is held in hand to the mat, so there is very little chance of a tipping...   this is all the more so when using Liquitex acrylic inks, as they [for what reason one cannot offhand imagine] have their bottles as tall thin cylinders, not squat and less tip-able as are most the others [such as FW, Higgens, and so forth]...   true, the ideal would be a wide block of wood or whatever with holes matching these bottles, so that they can be place therein, thus removing virtually all chance of a tipping...  but in place of that, and the necessity of the bottles being close to where the inks are being applied to avoid bloops in transferring the ink, what am presently doing is combining my hardboard arm resting mat with a shelf for the inks so all is close to the source - especially with regards this mural sized rendering, which is way too large to have the bottles at the rim of the rendering...

And note, too, the squatness of the water cup used for cleaning the ink from the nibs - for the same reason...

"Fertile Worlds".....34

And with the right side done as well, all that is left is the sea, the sky, and the leaves...  and tightening everything up, too...  as noted, especially in the enlargements, there is some light green added to the distant mounds...  primarily, the sea area will be process cyan and white, continuing in general the same pattern as the reflection areas, tho as the sky also will be those colors, there will be added some turquoise as well......

And here is the beginning of the sea - using turquoise deep acrylic ink, am now using the crow quill-like nib for getting the distant water reflectings of the sky, and turning to the regular nib, the one used in all the rest of the rendering, for the fore area...

And this is the results, the left side now done seawise... 

"Fertile Worlds".....33

Laying in the reflection waves [in preclusion to the reflection itself], and lining the background with its first layering of distant color, turquoise deep, giving the left side more its sense of 'being there'...

"Fertile Worlds".....32

Beginning to layer in the rock colors...  will refine later, after all has dried... basically using raw umber and red earth inks...

Further layering, including the vegetation...

"Fertile Worlds".....31

All of the trunk and branches now have been layered with the burnt umber and burnt sienna inks...     now to get on with doing the rock isle, its reflection, then the rear landscape...   after that, the sea itself, and the leaves...

"Fertile Worlds".....30

Did some work on the hollow, using sepia and burnt sienna inks...  there will be more layers later, when the rest of the tree and landscape behind are rendered with all their respective colors...

"Fertile Worlds".....29

And the third of the branches, as well as the rest of the lit trunk is done in the burnt umber... as soon as this is dried, then the burnt sienna will be layered over, matching the already done areas...

as seen here...

"Fertile Worlds".....28

Moving to the next branch, and using the same colors...















There will be more color layerings, but after all of the trunk and branches are down with these two colors...

"Fertile Worlds".....27

Beginning coloring the tree - using burnt umber for the first layering...

Then adding a layering of burnt sienna.....
















Keep in mind that am still using the same nib as have for all of the previous, and am just using it as a glazing tool, diluting some of the colors so they not too strong [easier to build up the strength than to remove the intensity]... 

"Fertile Worlds".....26

As it now looks, sort of...   the trunk coloring is next...

"Fertile Worlds".....25

Am beginning to lay in the reflecting colors...   the easiest way, for me, to doing this is to work it as if the islet is tilted, with the reflecting waves on the left and the islet on the right, like mirrors...   then simply mirror the colors, dotting on the wave parts that are reflecting [the prussian blue]...

further work on the reflections, as well as the fore grasses...

and here is the right side of the islet reflection... 

"Fertile Worlds".....24

Finishing off the left side of the islet re general coloring, the next was to do the reflection in the waters - at first just the hint of the dark on the light of the waters, then will come  specklngs of colors to indicate the real above...